Tuesday, July 24, 2007

紫禁城里的星巴克 Starbucks in the Forbidden City

一个多星期前,在紫禁城里开了7年的星巴克关了,迫于大众舆论的压力。据说网上几十万人慷慨激昂、各抒己见,很多人认为故宫里开星巴克,是美国的消费文化直挑中国传统文化的底线, 不可容忍。就是星巴克最后连招牌也摘了,静悄悄的卖它的咖啡,也难逃此劫。一个外国平民大众的连锁咖啡馆落户曾经壁垒森严的古老皇家圣地,许多人看着不顺眼,似乎可以理解。毕竟星巴克与故宫是两个太鲜明的符号,很容易挑动一个正在重拾自信的民族的敏感神经,唤起它的集体记忆。

2000年星巴克受邀入驻故宫,虽也有非议之声,但远不及今日受关注的程度。或许人们已经开始从无休止的物欲中抬起了头,从一味崇洋从摆脱出来,开始审视生活中对传统与文化的需要。若果真如此,倒值得庆幸。怕的是对中国文化遗产未知一二,对如今金钱至上诚信全无的社会行为缺乏反思,只求一个脸面。 若是抓住一个并不张扬的星巴克不放,却对同在皇城的喧嚣得多的另一家咖啡店和午门内出售低劣商品的众多摊贩视若无睹,只因他们是自家人,那就有了幼稚的民族主义膨胀之嫌,缺乏泱泱大国的气度了。

About a week ago, Starbucks closed its shop in the Forbidden City in Beijing, submitting to the pressure from hundreds of thousands of Chinese blasting the Internet with protests. People fiercely voiced their intolence of a Starbucks in the Forbidden City. Most argued that such a humiliation to the Chinese cultural heritage lodged by American consumerism should not be allowed. Even in the end Starbucks took down its logo to quietly run its coffee business, it was still not left alone. It is understandable that many people feel uncomfortable about a foreign grassroot coffee chain taking a place in the ultimate royal palace that had been forbidden to all but the royal blood. Afterall, Starbuck and the Forbidden City are each too prominent a symbol, well representing the cultures that have produced them. Easily can they touch the sensitive nerves and trigger the collective memory of a nation that has suffered great humiliations from various foreign attackers in its modern history and of a nation that is regaining a pride and confidence with the brisk pace of economic development and wealth accumulation.

Interestingly, the very Starbucks shop was opened in the Forbidden City in 2000 upon inviation from the Palace Museum located inside. It had been in operation since. Although protests were heard from the start, the scale was far weaker than this time. Encouraging it is, if it sends a signal that more Chinese people are coming out of a restless materialistic pursuit, from a total devotion to getting rich, and from blindly embracing all that's foreign. Still encouraging, if people are starting to realize the important role their cultural heritage takes in their lives. However, when one sees that nobody had a word against another coffee shop inside the City, far more noisy and aggressive, or about the vendors selling subquality, tasteless souveniors along the City's major corridor, just because these are run by our own countrymen, one is inclined to believe that the protest again Starbucks is simply another act of "face-saving", an exhibition of naïve natioanlism that is not founded on a deep understanding of our own culture or on a sincere reflection of the recent social behaviours that had gone too far from such a cultural root.